Will these wheels fit?
Fitment fails in four places, and only one of them is the bolt pattern everybody checks first. Work through these and you will know which number is about to bite you.
Does the bolt pattern match exactly?
Stud count and PCD both have to match. 5×112 and 5×114.3 are 2.3 mm apart and a wheel from the wrong one will feel like it is going on.
Is the wheel’s centre bore equal to or larger than your hub spigot?
The bore is the hole in the middle of the wheel. It must clear the raised spigot on the hub.
How does the new rim width compare with what is on the car?
Is the new offset (ET) higher or lower than your current wheel?
Lower ET pushes the wheel out toward the arch. Higher ET pulls it in toward the strut and the brake caliper.
You need an adapter, not a spacer — and think hard first
A spacer changes how far out the wheel sits; it cannot change the bolt pattern. Converting between patterns needs an adapter, which is a structural part carrying the whole load of the car through a second set of fasteners.
Adapters can be done properly, but they add unsprung weight, push the wheel out by their own thickness, and put a joint where there was not one. If the pattern is wrong, the honest first move is to look for a wheel in the right pattern.
Measure the pattern before anything else
Count the studs, then measure the pitch circle diameter. On an even stud count, measure centre-to-centre across two opposite studs. On a five-stud pattern you cannot do that — measure from the centre of one stud to the far edge of the stud two along, or use the calculator, which does the trigonometry for you.
Patterns cluster dangerously close: 5×112 and 5×114.3 are 2.3 mm apart, and a wheel from the wrong one will start onto the studs and then sit crooked.
The wheel will not go on — and machining is a decision, not a formality
If the centre bore is smaller than your hub spigot the wheel physically cannot seat against the hub face. Some wheels can be safely machined out; many cannot, and it depends on the casting, not on how much you want it to fit.
This is a wheel manufacturer question, not a forum question. If they will not sign it off, buy the right bore.
Check the outer edge — poke and the arch lip
Lower offset moves the outer edge out, and extra width adds half of itself to that same edge. Both of yours are pushing the same way, so the arch lip is the thing to measure.
Run the exact numbers through the offset calculator: it gives you the outer-edge movement in millimetres against the wheel you have now. Then check it at full compression and full lock, not parked — that is where a tyre finds the lip.
Check the inner edge — strut, spring and caliper
Higher offset pulls the wheel in toward the strut body, the spring perch and the brake caliper. This is the expensive direction, because you find out at full lock or over a bump rather than in the car park.
Get the inner-edge movement from the calculator, then measure the real clearance with the wheel off. The calculator cannot see your brakes — a concave spoke can foul a caliper that a flat one clears at the identical offset.
Same offset, so the width splits evenly
With the offset unchanged, extra rim width divides equally between the two edges — an extra inch moves each edge out by about 12.7 mm. That means a wider wheel at the same ET is simultaneously closer to your strut and closer to your arch.
If only one side has room, change the offset to bias the width toward the side that does. And check the tyre separately: a wider tyre on the same rim bulges further than the rim edge the calculator measures.