Symptoms of P0667
- Check-engine light, sometimes with several unrelated codes at once.
- Warning lights, a no-start, or intermittent electrical faults.
- Communication or module-reset problems on a scan tool.
Common causes of P0667
- Low battery voltage, poor grounds, corroded connectors, or blown fuses.
- Wiring or network (CAN bus) faults between modules.
- A module software/programming issue, or rarely a failed controller.
Useful checks before replacing parts
- Compare internal module temperature to ambient temperature, engine bay heat, battery voltage, freeze-frame load, and related processor or communication codes.
- Inspect module mounting, airflow around the module, heat shielding, connector water intrusion, power feeds, grounds, and harness damage near heat sources.
- Monitor temperature data from cold start through warm operation to confirm whether the signal changes realistically or jumps outside expected behavior.
How serious is P0667, and can you keep driving?
- Urgency
- Varies — read the whole code list before judging
- Safe to drive?
- Depends entirely on what the module has decided to do about it.
This family covers control-module, reference-voltage and internal-fault codes, and the severity spans the full range. A failed reference voltage can put several unrelated sensors out at once, which is why a car with one of these often has a long code list rather than a single entry. Read the whole list: the pattern across the codes usually identifies the common circuit far faster than any one of them does.
Clearing P0667, and making it stay gone
Clearing P0667 with a scan tool switches the lamp off; it does not fix anything, and it throws away the freeze-frame snapshot the car saved when the fault set. That snapshot is the most useful diagnostic evidence you have, because it records the load, RPM and temperature at the moment the test failed. Read it before you erase it.
Left alone, the lamp goes out on its own once the monitor that failed runs and passes on three consecutive driving cycles. The code stays in history after that, which is how a workshop can still see it. Disconnecting the battery is not a shortcut — it clears the stored codes and every learned fuel-trim value with them, so the car relearns from scratch and the underlying fault simply sets the code again.
On vehicles from roughly 2010 onward there is also a permanent DTC, which no scan tool can erase at all. It clears only when the monitor genuinely passes. That is deliberate: it stops a code being wiped in the car park outside an emissions test.
What P0667 costs to put right
There is no honest single figure for P0667, and any page that gives you one is guessing. The code names a circuit or a failed monitor, not a part — the same code can be a chafed wire, a connector full of water, or the component itself, and those are three very different bills.
The number worth budgeting for is diagnostic time. An hour of it is almost always cheaper than the second part you buy after the first one does not fix it, and parts fitted on a guess are rarely refundable once installed. If you are getting a quote, ask what the diagnosis found rather than what is being replaced — a computer fault traced to a specific cause is a repair, and a list of parts is a hopeful shopping list.
Questions people ask about P0667
What does P0667 mean?
P0667 indicates PCM, ECM, or TCM internal temperature sensor range or performance. The module temperature reading is present but does not behave plausibly.
Can I drive with P0667?
Depends entirely on what the module has decided to do about it. This family covers control-module, reference-voltage and internal-fault codes, and the severity spans the full range. A failed reference voltage can put several unrelated sensors out at once, which is why a car with one of these often has a long code list rather than a single entry. Read the whole list: the pattern across the codes usually identifies the common circuit far faster than any one of them does.
What causes P0667?
The usual candidates are low battery voltage, poor grounds, corroded connectors, or blown fuses; wiring or network (CAN bus) faults between modules; a module software/programming issue, or rarely a failed controller. The code tells you which test failed, not which of those did it — that is what the checks on this page are for.
Will P0667 clear itself?
Left alone, the lamp goes out on its own once the monitor that failed runs and passes on three consecutive driving cycles. The code stays in history after that, which is how a workshop can still see it. Disconnecting the battery is not a shortcut — it clears the stored codes and every learned fuel-trim value with them, so the car relearns from scratch and the underlying fault simply sets the code again.
Does P0667 mean I need to replace a part?
Do not condemn the controller before checking real heat exposure, voltage stability, connector condition, and related module faults.
How much does it cost to fix P0667?
There is no honest single figure for P0667, and any page that gives you one is guessing. The code names a circuit or a failed monitor, not a part — the same code can be a chafed wire, a connector full of water, or the component itself, and those are three very different bills.
Related OBD-II codes
These nearby computer entries can help compare wording and pin down the fault area.